![]() Now, if you take the time to "lap" the valves with fine lapping compound after you have ground/cut the seats and valves, you will get a better finish (and better flow.)Īnother thing to consider is the valve seat material. I've seen plenty cut improperly with carbide cutters as well. I see guys using worn stones in a Sioux style valve seat grinder and you end up with seats with grooves. I think it makes a difference with what equipment you are using as well.Ī Serdi VGS machine is considerably more accurate than the Neway kit. as usual I'm not saying what I said is correct, it's what I remember which is often flawed. Same with boring, nobody wants to take the time even if you want to pay for their time, just hog it out and make more later sooner.Īnd. Heck the customer doesn't know any better and only expects a few servicing's, before they can get additional bucks out of them. ![]() ![]() Just throw them in an automated machine and grind the heck out of them. I taught how to do it and it was a pride thing to be able to have it perfect. But it's been so long ago I don't remember any angles and don't remember how to run a machine to do it. I use to be pretty good at doing a stepped valve job. Is what I wrote why some would not recommend it? I agree it's not needed if the valve seats ok. I thought all lapping valves does is cause them pre mature wear. I see using bluing or a sharpie pen on valve and seat to see if it's correct and where they meet on the valve and seat, but you never lap valves in. I thought if a valve seats right it's right and lapping is not needed. In general when we check out an engine shop were thinking about having work done and we see valve lapping compound where they do heads, we won't take them any valve work. I was curious about what kind of responses I would get from the question. When ever that happens it means there's more discussion needed to settle it or to learn exactly why one way and why the other. Some go one direction and some go the other.
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